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One of the secrets of young, firm, unlined skin is its lipids.
These days, perhaps the old saying "You’re only as old as you feel," should be changed to "You’re only as old as you look." Firm, smooth skin is essential to looking young, but not everyone wants to undergo an operation or receive injections, not to mention face any of the risks that go with it. A much gentler solution would be to use creams, lotions, and tinctures containing ingredients that slow down the aging process or reduce its symptoms. All you have to do is look at the store shelves. Today’s cosmetic industry has many different care products in answer to the antiaging trend. For its formulations, it must have active chemical ingredients with functionalities customized to meet the needs of aging skin. Evonik’s Consumer Specialties Business Unit has been developing efficient active ingredients for the antiaging products of producers in Germany and abroad for many years. The focus is on substances with proven effects and efficiency that are based on natural raw materials or substances that are skin-identical. Skin ages not only on the surface Human skin is a complex organ consisting of different layers, each fulfilling very specific tasks. When skin ages, this affects virtually all layers and cell types: The epidermis becomes thinner, the strength of the connective tissues fades, and the skin loses elasticity and moisture. One of the secrets of young, firm, unlined skin is its lipids. In particular, these include the membrane-forming lipids that have a hydrophobic and hydrophilic part. Because of their amphiphilic properties, the molecules are able to arrange themselves into compact and stable double layers, which, on the one hand, firmly bond moisture and, on the other, shield cells against damaging external influences. Sphingolipids safeguard the skin’s barrier function Sphingolipids play an especially important role in human skin. They are long-chain molecules from an unsaturated amino alcohol and a fatty acid bonded via an amide group. Ceramides are a sub-class of sphingolipids. Some of these are important components of the outer, protective horny layer of our skin, the just 20- to 50-micrometer-thick stratum corneum.
Evonik customizes skin-identical active ingredients for the cosmetic industry The importance of sphingolipids as the skin’s own fountain of youth has been known at Evonik for some time. The company sees itself as a leader in the development and production of sphingolipids with the stereochemical structure that is found naturally in our skin. Sphingolipids are potent antiaging active ingredients because they increase the skin’s lipid content and can repair damaged barriers. These days, thanks to biotechnological processes, pure, skin-identical substances are accessible for the cosmetic industry.
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