*UPDATE* Optimizing the mildness and taste of oral care formulations
Oral Care Concept
Consumers have become increasingly conscious about the importance and benefits of oral hygiene over the past few years. Brushing their teeth with toothpaste and additionally using mouthwashes is already part of the daily oral care routines of many consumers. At Evonik Personal Care we help formulators meet the changing trends and growing demand by offering a range of effective, but mild solutions for oral care solutions.
Mild oral care formulations are in high demand from consumers
Benefits: Already part of consumers daily oral care routines
The challenge: Oral care solutions that are mild, taste nice, low-foaming and solubilize unpleasant flavors effectively
Evonik’s solution: Highly cleansing, but mild and natural cosmetic ingredients
The most common and probably the most important step in any consumer’s oral care routine is brushing their teeth with toothpaste. As consumers become increasingly conscious about sensitive teeth, they tend to prefer toothpaste formulations that use more natural and mild raw ingredients. An additional step within the oral care routine is the usage of mouthwashes, and research has shown that consumers are increasingly looking for effective but mild solutions. Claims such as ‘alcohol-free’, ‘mild’ or ‘natural’ are gaining more and more popularity for mouthwashes.
Accordingly, oral care ingredients now need to not only solubilize flavors without influencing the taste in a negative way and vary in their foaming properties, but are also required to be mild, are ideally made from natural ingredients and be eco-friendly. However, most common oral care products still include standard surfactants such as Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) - both of which, are not ideal ingredients for oral care. As tested in our labs, CAPB leaves a long lasting bitter taste in the mouth and both can cause irritation to consumers’ mucous membranes, especially SLS which we've found is one of the most irritating surfactants. As a result, Evonik Personal Care approaches the four major challenges oral care solutions are currently facing, by introducing highly efficient, innovative and convenient cosmetic ingredients:
I Mildness I Oral care formulations are required to be mild and gentle to the consumer’s mucous membranes in order to provide a comfortable and pleasant experience during their oral care routine. As Red Blood Cell tests have proven, the polyglycerol based solubilizers, TEGO® Betain 810 and RHEANCE ® One are basically non-irritants to mucous membranes, and therefore the perfect solution for effective but mild oral care formulations. RHEANCE® One is based on nature-identical biomolecules made only from the fermentation of sugars and is therefore 100% based on renewable feedstocks. With the introduction of RHEANCE® One, Evonik offers an innovative approach to oral care routines of environmentally conscious consumers, and provides a solution that is not only gentle to oral mucosa, but also gentle to the planet.
I Solubilizing I The solubilization of flavors is of vital importance for oral care solutions. In most cases, Ethanol helps to solubilize such flavors, but RHEANCE ® One has proven to perform similarly to ethoxylates and CAPB and so presents a highly efficient and natural alternative for oral care solutions.
I Taste I To offer consumers oral care solutions with a nice and pleasant taste, beauty brands can tap into “on-trend” foods and expand flavors and ingredients within the oral care segment. In order to do so, it is vital to use ingredients that do not have a bitter taste. In this case, TEGO® Betain 810 and especially RHEANCE® One are the best options for the tested flavors with regard to comfortable and not-bitter taste.
I Foaming I Some oral care solutions are expected by consumers to have either low foaming properties, such as mouthwashes, or higher foaming properties, like toothpastes for instance. Evonik Personal Care provides solutions for both: TEGO® Solve 90 MB and TEGO® Solve 55 provide low foaming properties which is advantageous for mouthwashes, whereas TEGO® Betain ZF and TEGO® Betain 810 come with quite strong foaming properties which is beneficial for oral care solutions like toothpastes.
With this concept and the introduction of innovative ingredients such as RHEANCE® One and the TEGO® Solve range, Evonik offers an innovative approach to the oral care routines of taste, smell and environmentally conscious consumers, and provides solutions that are highly efficient and gentle to our oral mucosa. This is what we call the Soul & Science of Beauty.
W/O BB Cream SPF 20
|ABIL® EM 180 |
(Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone )
|ABIL® Wax 9801 |
(Cetyl Dimethicone )
|TEGOSOFT® XC MB |
(Phenoxyethyl Caprylate )
|TEGOSOFT® OP |
(Ethylhexyl Palmitate )
|TEGOSOFT® APM |
(PPG-3 Myristyl Ether )
|TEGO® Turmerone |
(Curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract )
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
|TEGOSOFT® DEC |
(Diethylhexyl Carbonate )
Red Iron Oxide
Black Iron Oxide
Yellow Iron Oxide
|TEGOLON® 12-20 |
(Talkum, Carl Roth)
Sipernat 500 LS
|HyaCare® 50 |
(Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid )
|TEGO® Arjuna S |
(Terminalia arjuna extract; Pentylene Glycol)
1. Disperse the pigments/powders homogeneously into phase B.
2. Heat Phase A to approximately 85 °C.
3. Add phase B to phase A with stirring and keep the temperature.
4. Add phase C to phase A/B with stirring and keep the temperature.
5. Add phase D (80 °C or room temperature) to phase A/B/C slowly while stirring.
6. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase E below 40 °C.
7. Cool to 30 °C and homogenize again.
8. Add phase Z.
Viscosity: 11,000 cPs (Brookfield DV-II+ Pro, sp. 5, 10 rpm)
SPF: 20.0, UVA-Balance: 38%, CW 370nm (Calculated values, BASF Sunscreen Simulator)
Formulation was tested on emulsion stability with 0.7% Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010, Schülke & Mayr GmbH). Microbiological Safety: Challenge test not performed