Gentle and mild
For many years, sulfate-containing surfactants have been the predominant base for personal care cleansing formulations. With consumers becoming more and more conscious when it comes to cosmetic ingredients, there is a trend toward replacing these traditional surfactants with sulfate-free alternatives. Evonik Personal Care offers a range of highly effective sulfate-free cleansing formulations.
Sulfate-free formulations are gaining popularity
Benefits: Enhanced mildness, improved wash fastness of hair dyes
The challenge: Sulfate-free surfactants usually have poor foaming and are difficult to thicken
Evonik’s solution: Optimized combination of surfactants & addition of thickening agents
These days, many cosmetic products advertise the absence of various ingredients that are out of consumer favor, such as parabens, preservatives in general, or sulfates. Many consumers associate such 'free-from' claims with cosmetic benefits such as increased mildness and often being more naturally-derived products. Sulfates, particularly in personal cleansing products, have the disadvantage of being aggressive to the hair, scalp and skin. Consequently, the number of sulfate-free shampoos on the market has grown significantly over the past few years.
The challenge of formulating with sulfate-free surfactants lies in their poor foaming properties and difficult thickenability. Consumer research has shown that a product’s foaming properties, as well as its viscosity, are major determining factors in the consumer’s perception of product cleansing efficacy and quality. Therefore, the appearance, density and longevity of foam along with the product’s look and feel in application are crucial parameters. Evonik’s solution to this challenge is an optimized combination of surfactants with the addition of high-performing thickening agents.
With REWOTERIC® AM C, Evonik offers a highly skin-compatible amphoteric surfactant that provides strong foaming and viscosifying properties and is additionally preservative-free. Systematic tests on hair swatches have shown that sulfate-free surfactant systems are significantly beneficial in improving the wash fastness of dyed hair.
For the perfect combination in surfactant formulations, ANTIL® Soft SC MB, a natural based additive, has proven to add excellent thickening and foam boosting properties to sulfate-free cleansing formulations. Another PEG-free rheological additive with optimized surfactant thickening efficacy which enables temperature-stable viscosities is ANTIL® SPA 80.
Consumer demand for innovative textures, especially in body washes, is constantly on the rise. Sulfate-free formulations with a high oil level are particularly challenging for formulators due to their foaming, stability, texture and viscosity properties. With TEGO® Sulfosuccinate DO 75, Evonik provides a solution for these challenges. The anionic surfactant is especially suitable for high oil-containing (up to 50%) and foaming cleansing formulations and is therefore suitable for body washes / shampoos.
With this concept, Evonik offers an inspirational selection of highly in-demand solutions for different types of sulfate-free cleansing formulations. The concept includes conditioning shampoos, hair and body washes, sulfate- & PEG- (& betaine-) free formulations as well as a high oil-containing body wash cream.
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W/O BB Cream SPF 20
|ABIL® EM 180 |
(Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone )
|ABIL® Wax 9801 |
(Cetyl Dimethicone )
|TEGOSOFT® XC MB |
(Phenoxyethyl Caprylate )
|TEGOSOFT® OP |
(Ethylhexyl Palmitate )
|TEGOSOFT® APM |
(PPG-3 Myristyl Ether )
|TEGO® Turmerone |
(Curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract )
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
|TEGOSOFT® DEC |
(Diethylhexyl Carbonate )
Red Iron Oxide
Black Iron Oxide
Yellow Iron Oxide
|TEGOLON® 12-20 |
(Talkum, Carl Roth)
Sipernat 500 LS
|HyaCare® 50 |
(Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid )
|TEGO® Arjuna S |
(Terminalia arjuna extract; Pentylene Glycol)
1. Disperse the pigments/powders homogeneously into phase B.
2. Heat Phase A to approximately 85 °C.
3. Add phase B to phase A with stirring and keep the temperature.
4. Add phase C to phase A/B with stirring and keep the temperature.
5. Add phase D (80 °C or room temperature) to phase A/B/C slowly while stirring.
6. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase E below 40 °C.
7. Cool to 30 °C and homogenize again.
8. Add phase Z.
Viscosity: 11,000 cPs (Brookfield DV-II+ Pro, sp. 5, 10 rpm)
SPF: 20.0, UVA-Balance: 38%, CW 370nm (Calculated values, BASF Sunscreen Simulator)
Formulation was tested on emulsion stability with 0.7% Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010, Schülke & Mayr GmbH). Microbiological Safety: Challenge test not performed