Melanin-rich beauty: Care for your unique shades

With consumers looking to personalize their beauty regimes for their specific needs, supported by proactive self-education about their beauty, it is imperative that beauty product brands respond to these evolving needs to ensure consumers of different skin-types feel included during their product selection. Beauty product formulators need to fully understand the science behind melanin-rich skin in order to create the best performing products and meet the expectations of melanin-skin rich beauty consumers.

By Abigail Casey

Personalized beauty products

Personalization is a focus and current consumer trend, particularly in the beauty and personal care industry. The drive to personalization is also a result of the diversity and inclusivity movement. Now it is time for brands to develop products for more diverse skin types to address consumers’ desire to have the best products for their skin. Today’s consumer has more accessibility to personal care data, which has led to an increase in more educated shoppers. Consumers are looking to personalize their beauty regimes for their specific needs. Education and understanding of the structural properties of their unique skin is a priority for these consumers.

Understanding the Journey to Melanin Rich Skin care products

Melanin-rich beauty consumers are recognizing that there are key differences in the structural properties of skin with varying melanin content. Unique shades require unique solutions in beauty products. As a result, formulators must understand how to adapt their formulations to the requirements of such skin-types in the development of products for more diverse skin.

Discover the Science and solutions

Pigmentation is not defined by the number of melanocytes in the skin but by the activity of the melanocytes to produce melanin. Melanin, once produced, is then deposited into keratinocyte cells of the epidermis through melanosomes. Melanosomes are capable of building up around the cell nucleus with increased melanin production and aid in protection against ionizing radiation. While UV protection is advantageous, there are some care routine differences that come with melanin-rich skin types. To address these concerns, Evonik has highlighted several Active Ingredients and their functional role in providing solutions.

Solution I: Ceramides and Sphingolipids

Studies show that as melanin composition increases, ceramide levels decrease, subsequently decreasing the barrier function of the stratum corneum. Melanin-rich beauty consumers can look to products that contain Ceramides and Sphingolipids to balance this possible deficit. Evonik has a wide range of sphingolipids, single ceramides and ceramide blends that are all capable of rebuilding the ceramide levels in melanin-rich skin to increase the barrier function.

Solution II: Vitamin D

Higher levels of pigmentation have been shown to hinder synthesis of vitamin D in the skin. Vitamin D is synthesized from 7-dehydrocholesterol through photodegradation caused by the UV from the sun. Evonik’s TEGO® Sterol 7-DHC, can provide a solution to tackle this deficiency by nourishing the skin with a vitamin D precursor, leading to more vitamin D synthesis for melanin-rich beauty consumers.

Solution III: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

As dead keratinocytes eventually desquamate, the physical appearance of melanin-rich skin appears drier, flakier, and lighter than the natural skin tone. Skin exfoliation is already a well-understood approach to achieving more radiant, healthy-looking skin. Traditional alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are recognized as effective exfoliators with several additional benefits, but some can present challenging effects on melanin-rich skin. TEGO® Renewha Mandelic has been found useful for improving the appearance of various skin conditions seen with melasma, inflammatory acne, wrinkles, and fine lines, while not bearing the same adverse effects on darker skin shades.

These products from Evonik provide meaningful solutions to alleviate the concerns of melanin-rich beauty consumers through scientific evidence and efficacy.

Want to learn more? Visit our intoBeauty® customer platform or get in contact with us.

Dr. Abigail Casey

Applied Technology Manager Care Solutions

Dr. Abigail Casey is an Applied Technology Manager for active ingredients, North America, Care Solutions. In her role she supports technical applications and development for active ingredients in formulations for both leave-on and rinse-off applications. In her free time she is a practicing licensed cosmetologist and enjoys gardening.