Events

IFSCC 2025 in Cannes

Evonik at IFSCC 2025

For the first time, Evonik will be a Silver Sponsor at the IFSCC Congress, from September 15 to 18, 2025! You know Evonik for industry-leading functional ingredients and cutting-edge ceramides. Now, we go beyond to shape a new era of smartly designed and science-backed cosmetic actives.

Skin Institute

Microbiome Festival

This year in Cannes, we are throwing the microbiome festival, where your microbe is the star of the show! Our proprietary co-culture models uniquely capture the skin microbiome interactions. We screen actives that protect and restore its delicate balance - from preservation to active ingredients. Come and play with us in our never-seen-before interactive content at our booth #27 to help us restore the balance!

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Biotech Hub

Last but not least, we want to highlight our exceptional Biotech Hub! With 40+ years of expertise, we pioneer synthetic biology to power our innovative and sustainable actives and functional ingredients. We drive innovation through precision fermentation, advanced in silico and in vitro screening and large-scale manufacturing.

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Join us at stand #27, where you'll have the perfect opportunity to engage with our team of experts, and come see our podium & poster presentations. We look forward to discussing our latest innovations and exploring how we can drive the future of cosmetics together!

Oral presentation  

Enhancing Deposition Efficiency: The Impact of Glycolipids on Active Ingredients

18.09.2025 11:10 Auditorium Lumière

 

Presenter

Dr. Nadine Truchan

Introduction

It is well-known that incorporating non-water-soluble active ingredients into water-based systems can be challenging. Additionally, there is often debate about whether it is worthwhile to use them in rinse-off applications due to their short retention time. Nature-identical glycolipids, produced by microorganisms, are not only exceptionally gentle on the skin and mucous membranes but also have been studied for their potential in effectively solubilizing and depositing active ingredients on the skin and hair. In a world increasingly focused on sustainable solutions, glycolipids present new opportunities as an excellent alternative to less sustainable and more irritating surfactants, while also serving as solubilizers for active ingredients.

Methods

The deposition of active ingredients from aqueous rinse-off formulations is confirmed using standardized methods. The quantities of both active ingredients and glycolipids on the skin were measured through HPLC analysis after applying and rinsing off the respective blend from the skin of a group of panelists. Similar tests were conducted on Caucasian hair tresses showing the deposition after rinse-off applications. To ensure that the active ingredients are fully solubilized with the help of glycolipids, DLS measurements and microscopy studies were performed.

Results

It was demonstrated that non-water-soluble active ingredients can be successfully solubilized in glycolipids without forming any crystals. Furthermore, their incorporation into water-based systems resulted in clear and stable formulations suitable for various applications. Additionally, it was shown that glycolipids enable and support the deposition of active ingredients.

Discussion and Conclusion

Inspired by the goal of offering new solutions to the market, it was successfully demonstrated that two key technologies can be combined to introduce a sustainable and mild solution. This enables the personal care market to explore new opportunities by integrating active ingredients into water-based formulations, creating clear and stable systems. However, this process has proven to be challenging, and no sustainable solution has been found so far- until now.  It was also shown that incorporating these ingredients into rinse-off applications is worthwhile, as deposition studies confirmed the presence of active ingredients on both skin and hair. The deposition is enabled and enhanced by the glycolipids used in these systems. To showcase their potential, well-established analytical techniques were employed.

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Posters  

 

  • Preserving cosmetic formulations amid multidrug resistance - #1519
  • Regulation of epidermal pathways and skin homeostasis through a skin-identical plant-derived vitamin D and cholesterol precursor - #1726
  • Unlocking the mechanism of action of recombinant collagen in preserving dermal structure and delivering anti-aging benefits - #1788
  • Targeting Acne Dysbiosis Through An Advanced Microbial Co-Culture Model - #1792

Deep Dive into Evonik Ingredients

The Future is Science – Let’s shape it together with our Actives and functional ingredients

Functional ingredients

Empowering beauty with high-performance and sustainable solutions

The functional ingredients portfolio from Evonik encompasses a broad spectrum of solutions designed to deliver stability, performance, and sensory excellence across skin care, hair care, and cleansing applications. It includes glycolipids, natural-based emulsifiers, enzymatically produced emollients, conditioning esterquats, solubilizers, and sensory enhancers, among many others.

Our enzymatic esterification technology enables the production of high-purity emollients through energy-efficient processes using renewable feedstocks, minimizing waste and reducing CO₂ emissions compared to conventional methods. In addition, the ECOHANCE® program introduces next-generation solutions based on alternative feedstocks, such as biomass-derived materials and production side streams, to optimize resource efficiency and lower environmental impact throughout the value chain.

By integrating biotechnology, green chemistry, and advanced processing technologies, this portfolio supports the creation of formulations that meet the highest standards of efficacy, aesthetics, and sustainability, enabling the development of innovative products for a more responsible beauty industry.

Discover more about our portfolio here: Products

Ceramides & Sphingolipids

Harnessing over 30 years of biotech expertise, for skin barrier and beyond

In the quest for radiant, healthy skin, ceramides have emerged as a cornerstone ingredient in the cosmetic industry. As one of the leading manufacturers of active ingredients in cosmetics, Evonik has been conducting fundamental research into ceramide technologies for over 30 years now and has successfully produced Ceramides through biotechnology since day one.

Since 1994, Evonik has developed a range of Ceramides solutions for a wide variety of applications and claims to support the skin barrier and beyond. Evonik Ceramides Solutions protect by reinforcing the natural lipid barrier of dry, sensitive, or aging skin and hair against moisture loss and external changes. They replenish by counteracting photodamaged skin and reducing inflammation, and they strengthen the skin from the stratum corneum to the subcutis, as well as reducing hair breakage and shielding hair fibers against mechanical and thermal stress.

Vegan Collagen

Biodesigning skin-identical collagen, sustainably sourced for modern beauty.

Vecollage® Fortify redefines collagen innovation with a biotech-based, vegan collagen polypeptide that is identical to a fragment of human collagen type III. Produced via precision fermentation, it meets the growing demand for sustainable, ethical skincare—without compromising efficacy. 

Powered by a dual-action mechanism and clinically proven to activate skin rejuvenation, Vecollage® Fortify helps prevent age-related collagen loss in the skin. The result: visibly firmer, smoother, and revitalized skin. 

Whether for daily anti-aging care or aesthetic procedure recovery, Vecollage® Fortify offers a future-forward solution for brands committed to clean, science-backed beauty. 

Ready to revolutionize your skincare formulations? 

Biosurfactants

Embracing a new dimension of sustainable and gentle cleansing.

Step into the future of sustainable beauty with Evonik’s biosurfactants: RHEANCE® and SOPHANCE® glycolipids. Produced through fermentation of renewable feedstocks, Evonik’s glycolipids feature nature-identical structures that combine high cleansing efficiency, exceptional mildness, and biodegradability. These sulfate-free, vegan-suitable ingredients offer formulators versatility across facial cleansers, shampoos, oral care and baby care products, delivering excellent mildness without compromising foam quality or sensorial experience. With a low carbon footprint and minimal aquatic toxicity, these biosurfactants enable brands to align with the growing demand for eco-conscious beauty while delivering proven consumer benefits.

Explore more about our biosurfactants and access inspirational formulation resources on Evonik's biosurfactant page.

Botanicals & Natural Actives

Leveraging the power of nature to create powerful and sustainable cosmetics

Today’s beauty consumers are looking for ecological and ethical solutions, without compromising on performance. We deliver scientifically validated natural actives that unite sustainability, innovation, and proven efficacy.

We support cosmetics brands with smart, nature derived ingredients that meet the growing demand for clean and conscious beauty.

Whether you're targeting scalp health, hair thickening, sebum control, or skin tone evening, we’ve got you covered.
Let nature bring performance and purpose to your product portfolio.

Actively-targeted Delivery Systems: Precision cosmetics redefined  

Raising the bar in precision delivery for smarter, more effective actives

True innovation often appears before its time. At first, it may seem intangible, almost invisible — an idea awaiting the right moment to be fully understood. Our X50 technology, cell targeted delivery system followed that very path. Years ago, we invested in technology that could guide active ingredients with unprecedented precision, long before the tools to prove its precise mechanism were available. Today, science has caught up with vision. With advanced in vivo skin penetration, receptor binding techniques and imaging and analysis for internalization, we can demonstrate exactly how this system works — how it navigates, identifies its target, and releases actives where they are most needed.

These smart capsules go beyond delivery. Their tailored ligands are designed to recognize and connect with specific receptors, ensuring each active reaches its true destination. This precise interaction ensures that the active reaches the right cell with unmatched selectivity.  Once the capsule binds, is recognized, internalized by the cell where the optimal dose of the active—intact, effective, is released awakening the skin’s natural renewal. Tangibly transformed.

Our X50 targeted technology is more than a delivery system. It’s a versatile technology, adaptable to a wide range of cosmetic actives and skin needs. One smart system. Multiple solutions. This is X50 Technology—Precision Cosmetic by Evonik.