The natural Emulsifier
ISOLAN® DisperPlus
Closing the Gap Between Naturality and Performance in Color Cosmetics
The Market Shift: Why Clean Beauty Is Redefining Color Cosmetics
Consumers increasingly expect natural credentials and high performance to coexist — especially in color cosmetics. That expectation is shaping launch strategies: natural claims in premium color have grown steadily in recent years, approaching 50% of launches in 2024 (Evonik analysis of Mintel GNPD, 2020–2024). For formulators, the question is no longer if they should move beyond silicones, but how to keep sensorial quality, stability, and color payoff while doing so.
The Rise of Natural Claims in Color Cosmetics
Source: 1. Mintel GNPD analysis claim matches category “Natural” (2020-2024); 2. Total premium includes “prestige, luxe, super luxe” 3. Mintel report- Trending ingredients and formats in color cosmetics (2023); The future of color cosmetics (2024)
The Formulation Challenge: Why Replacing Silicones Isn’t Simple
Moving from silicone‑based systems to natural alternatives is more than a swap. Pigment wetting and dispersion, emulsion stability, sensory feel, and coverage/transfer resistance all interact. Change one variable and the others can shift. Historically, teams traded off naturality for performance — or added complexity (co‑emulsifiers, higher oil, more processing) to compensate.
Formulator pain points
- Poor pigment wetting - uneven payoff, shade drift
- Instability at high pigment loads
- Heavier textures when increasing oil/wax to stabilize
- Cost/time of hot processing or multi‑emulsifier systems
Meet ISOLAN® DisperPlus: A Natural Emulsifier for Color Brilliance
*EPO vegan, **Natural Origin Index Ino=1.00, Description and Origin of plant-based materials: Rapeseed/canola (Brassica), castor (Ricinus communis), *** ongoing
ISOLAN® DisperPlus is a 100% natural origin W/O emulsifier designed specifically for pigment‑rich foundations and other color formats. It brings together strong emulsification with outstanding pigment wetting, letting you formulate light, low‑viscosity W/O systems —including cold/cold processes.
At‑a‑glance benefits
- Excellent pigment wetting for even color and high coverage
- High pigment load capability (coated & uncoated) with robust stability
- Light, non‑oily feel comparable to silicones
- Cold processable, 100% active (efficiency + energy savings)
- Readily biodegradable and fully biogenic
How It Works: Wetting and Stabilization for High-Performance Formulas
ISOLAN® DisperPlus displaces air/moisture from pigment surfaces (wetting), then adsorbs onto particles to reduce agglomeration via steric stabilization. The result is a fine, homogeneous pigment distribution in low‑viscosity W/O emulsions - even at higher pigment levels.
Wetting and Stabilization Mechanism
Proven Performance: Data That Speaks for Itself
- Color trueness: Foundations with ISOLAN® DisperPlus showed up to 49% better shade accuracy compared to silicone-based benchmarks, meaning the color on skin stays closer to what you see in the jar (internal data, 2025).
- Transfer resistance: 62% less color transfer on fabric compared to silicone-based formulations, helping makeup stay in place longer.
- Sensorial parity: Comparable feel to silicone systems in panel tests (light, non‑oily).
ISOLAN® DisperPlus Performance Tests
Data from internal Evonik testing with representative siliconebased market benchmarks; results depend on formulation and testing conditions. Details in the complete marketing presentation on intoBeauty®.
Sustainability Beyond the Label: Certifications and Eco Profile
ISOLAN® DisperPlus pairs performance with credible sustainability:
- 100% renewable carbon content
- Readily biodegradable
- Vegan, Halal, CFI suitable, IECIC listed
- COSMOS certification: ongoing
- Sustainability advantage: –86% GWP (cradle‑to‑gate, incl. biogenic carbon & land use change) vs. a silicone emulsifier benchmark.
From Lab to Launch: Real-World Formulation Examples
Guideline formulation | Lightweight Foundation with a Dewy Finish
A light, low‑viscosity W/O foundation delivering smooth slip, high coverage, and excellent color trueness.
- Emulsifier: ISOLAN® DisperPlus at ~4%
- Oil phase: ~35% (incl. light esters; compatible with alkanes/silicones if desired)
- Pigments: Titanium dioxide + iron oxides (coated or uncoated)
- Process: Cold/cold with 1–2% electrolyte (e.g., MgSO₄·7H₂O)
See our presentation for an overview of the formulation sheet, preparation steps, and other inspiring formulations such as Mineral Shield Natural Foundation SPF 20 and Quick-Absorbing Light Foundation. Download the complete presentation below!
FAQ Section
Switching from silicones requires an emulsifier that delivers comparable emulsification and sensorial properties. ISOLAN® DisperPlus, a 100% natural-origin W/O emulsifier, offers exceptional performance with outstanding pigment wetting capabilities and superior emulsification. It supports high pigment loads while providing a light, non-oily skin feel, making it an excellent silicone alternative.
Yes. ISOLAN® DisperPlus is 100% active and cold processable, which helps reduce energy consumption and simplifies production. For cold/cold processes, include a small amount of stabilizer (e.g., 0.5% zinc stearate) for optimal viscosity and stability.
Absolutely. It is fully biogenic, readily biodegradable, vegan, Halal, and CFI-compliant, with COSMOS certification currently in progress. Additionally, it features a highly optimized sustainability profile, offering a lower carbon footprint and 100% renewable carbon content compared to silicone-based emulsifiers.
Ready to Formulate Without Trade-Offs?
ISOLAN® DisperPlus helps you deliver naturality + performance — with the data to back it up and process flexibility to speed development.
